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The AHCUSA Website healey.org

The Austin Healey Club USA (AHCUSA) is the definitive resource for Austin Healey owners and enthusiasts worldwide. Welcome to our members' website.

The AHCUSA is a world-wide association of people interested in the history, maintenance, restoration, and enjoyment of all Healey marques.  

The AHCUSA provides many invaluable resources for admirers of these wonderful cars.

  • The club publishes the award-winning Austin-Healey Magazine , the Austin-Healey Resource Book, and the Austin-Healey Calendar.
  • The club sponsors the yearly "Rendezvous," a meet hosted by local Healey clubs in western North America, where Healey enthusiasts gather to enjoy their shared passion.
  • The club maintains this website, providing a wealth of valuable information about Healeys and their history, acquisition, maintenance, restoration, and enjoyment.
  • The club produces the Resource Book full of useful detail and info as well as a membership roster and Travelers Network.

Last Updated ( Friday, 14 March 2008 )
 
Pre-Touring Checklist

by Norm Nock 

Brakes: This is a major safety item and should be checked regularly by a qualified mechanic. Pulling, soft pedal, no power, locking, grinding, or squeaking are some of the reasons to get your brakes checked for safe operation.

Driving Over 6000 Feet: In high altitudes your engine will have a 3 percent per 1000 feet decrease in power and the idle will be slower. If you do not drive regularly above 6000 feet, it is not necessary to change your carburetor adjustments or the ignition timing. If you do live at these high altitudes, check with local mechanics who will advise you about how to change your ignition to suit the altitude.

Generator: If your generator starts to make a grinding sound, the bush and/or bearing are badly worn. This is usually caused by a fan belt being adjusted too tight. The belt should not be "twangy" tight; it should have a little loose­ness, but not slip.

Cooling System: Check the accuracy of your temperature gauge against a thermometer inserted in the top of the radiator, with cap removed and car idling. Any temperature readings over 195 degrees F on the gauge while driving, should be investigated to avoid overheating and engine damage. Check condition of radiator and heater hoses and replace if they are old, hard, cracked, or mushy.

Hubs, Wire Wheels: Check the condition of the hubs by driving slowly in second gear and going on and off the gas pedal. Listen for clicks coming from the hubs. If you hear these clicks, your wheel could come off while driving. Do not over tighten the knock-offs to stop the clicks. Clicks could also be caused by a worn universal joint or differential.

Water Pump: Hold the pulley or fan blade at the tip and move it. There should be no movement or looseness. Look for a rusty stain or a coolant leak from the hole in the bottom of the pump.

Electric Fuel Pump: If the pump is old and dirty, you should replace it with the newest type electric S.U. pump.

Battery: Check that the specific gravity of your battery shows at the fully charged mark of 1.280. If not, charge the battery and check the specific gravity again. If is has not reached the fully charged state, replace it before if causes you a "no start problem."

Leaks: If your car leaks every time you park it, don't assume it could only come from your engine. Check the transmission level and the coolant level. (Note: water/antifreeze looks like clean oil.) Don't forget to check the engine oil as well. Keep a close watch on all your fluid levels and avoid an expensive overhaul.

Austin-Healey Magazine, March 1991
 
So You Want to Buy a British Sports Car?

Some Questions and Answers by Jeff Burns

(Note: this article was originally appeared in the Austin-Healey Magazine in 1990 but still applies today. Adjust dollar figures accordingly)

The following dialogue is taken from a helpful and amusing little book written by Jeff Bums, owner of Mo­torhead Ltd. British restorations in Arlington, Virginia. With Jeff’s permission, we've adapted some of it to the Healeys, though most of what he says applies to all of the breeds equally well. Give it to a friend who's thinking about buying, or let your spouse read it in the hopes of greater understanding of your commitment.

Aren't British cars unreliable?

No, not inherently. The designs are intelligent. The technology is simple and well-proven. The cars are well constructed. The parts are durable in a manner consistent with the light nature of a sports car. When renovated and properly maintained, a British car can provide 100,000 miles offun, reliable driving at a cost of about $100 a month.

Are they safe?

Yes, inherently. In a small responsive sports car, one is able to avoid dangerous situations. Of course, sometimes the exhilaration allows maneuvering be­yond one's ability. In an accident, when shoulder belts are worn, the cockpit of a British car is rarely deformed, and injuries are minimal. While slipping a car is extremely difficult to accomplish, the convert­ible sports cars don't easily forgive loss of control.

How much does a British car cost?

Not much. Compared to new cars of similar ability, most British cars are inexpensive, fun, and mostly convertible. A good used one driven daily can cost from $4500 to $8500 to buy and about $100 a month thereafter. Although you can own, renovate, and maintain a car on a reasonable budget, there is almost no limit to the money you may spend if you choose to restore it. 

Last Updated ( Sunday, 04 May 2008 )
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Newsflash

NEW FEATURE ADDED

Members can now comment on articles

 

The ability to comment on articles was just added on a trial basis.  At the end of each article is a Write Comment link.  This feature is only available to registered (Club Members) users.  Let us know how this works out.  We will fine tune this feature as we go along and if it is popular will be left turned on.  Cheers!  All volunteer management.