by Gary Anderson

Last month we outlined the overall process of prepar­ing your car for concours or popular choice shows this summer. We suggested that you give the car a good overall cleaning, touch up the painted components, and replace non-standard or worn trim and interior parts. Now it is time to wash, polish, and wax the car-what we in California call detailing.

Keeping your car clean and shiny, inside and out, is a source of satisfaction and pride. But more than that, it is a basic aspect of maintaining the car's value and performance. With your Fordolet or Hondubishi this may simply mean running it through the autowash every few weeks and putting a quick coat of one-step car wax on once or twice a year. After all, these cars are simply transportation.

But with your Healey we're talking hobby and investment. Maybe even trophies. These special cars merit more attention, but getting your car into show condition isn't difficult. You need the right tool for each job, the right product for each problem, a little patience and energy, and a good eye for detail.

The Process

In our overall plan to get your car ready to show at the meets this summer, we suggested you set aside the last three weekends for the final preparation. During the first weekend we will do the dirty, gritty things, on the second, we will polish and wax, and the third weekend we'll do the interior and the final details. Incidentally, if you do this conscientiously, it only needs to be done once each year. In between a clean-up after each outing and a pleasant afternoon every few months will keep it street-sharp and in good shape.

But first, we should assemble our tools and materials. A good auto supply store should have what you will need. Dress appropriately. Metal on your clothes, such as buttons, zippers, rivets, and belt buckles can leave some nasty scratches. Cover­alls or a large apron may be a good idea.

Engine, Wheels, and Undercarriage

Because these are usually the dirtiest parts of the car, we'll start with them. Set the car close to a hose and running water, put it up on jack stands and remove the wheels. Now, start with the engine. Gunk or another engine cleaner will be used to remove caked-on grease, and a good household cleaner or Simple Green will take care of less dirty parts of the engine. A one or two inch paint brush, with the bristles cut to one inch long can be used to paint the Gunk on and get into nooks and crannies. A tooth brush will work in smaller spaces. Protect your hands with cotton gloves; there are lots of sharp edges hiding in there. For the undercarriage and wheel wells, an old wash mitt or large sponge and a larger scrub brush will work well. SOS pads will be useful for some areas.

You can do some of this at the local coin slot car wash, but for the most part the high pressure isn't needed and is more likely to damage labels and wear down the asbestos panels. Steam cleaning is only recommended if you've got to sell the car and get out of town in a hurry. Otherwise do it slow and do it right.

Pad the fenders around the bonnet opening with a repair pad or beach towel so that you can lean inside as needed. Noting which sparkplug wire goes where (make a diagram or mark each with tape), remove the distributor cap and wires, and cover the distributor with a large freezer bag taped securely underneath. Cover and tape the air cleaners in the same fashion.

Now, brush on the grease remover, let it stand, then rinse it off, using the brush to agitate the dirt. Reach down from above, reach up from below, whatever is needed to clean each part. While you're under the car, clean off everything you can reach or see, including the springs, shocks, tranny housing, frame, wheel wells, and so forth. Put the engine back together and start it up to dry it.

While you're working under the car, give the frame and under panels a quick wax with a one-step product. This will give the paint added protection and make cleaning easier in the future.

Now clean the tires thoroughly, including the treads, using a sturdy brush and Simple Green or Soft Scrub. Clean the wheels, making sure that you get every bit of dirt off. A rag wrapped around your finger or toothbrush, spray cleaner, and water are all that are needed. This is where patience comes in, since you need to do each spoke in turn. If no one has ever told you this trick, once the wheels are clean, smear a silicone adhesive over the nipples inside the hubs to prevent axle grease from leaking out again and next time the wheels will be a lot easier to clean. While they are off, wax the wheels, making sure to remove all traces of residue.

With the wheels still off, polish and wax the insides of the wheel wells and then put the tires back on. This may seem like going to the extreme, but these nooks and crannies are where the worst Healey rust usually starts.

Washing and Waxing the Exterior

Experienced detailers know that there is even a right way to wash a car. While some people use dish soap or something even harsher, the best product is one of the car soaps, which will be gentler on the finish. A bucket and a clean wash mitt are the best tools.

Start by putting the top and side curtains (or windows) in place. Give the top a good cleaning first, using a brush to get into the texture of the vinyl, and a spray cleaner or Soft Scrub if the top is really dirty. When rinsing, be sure to rinse the residue all the way off the car, since the cleanser would leave serious spots.

Wash the car using the mitt and lots of suds, gently working from front to back. Rinse the car using the hose. The car will dry easier tfthe hose is used without a nozzle since the sheets of water flow off smoothly. Dry the car using clean, soft terrycloth towels. These can be purchased at a discount store and, if washed after each use, used many times.

They are preferred by most professionals to chamois since the chamois can hold grit and easily scratch a paint job.

Windows should be washed with a window cleaner and a lint-free material. You might try news­paper, which has the status of an old wife’s tale, but works very well for me. There are special products for the Plexiglas in side curtains and hardtops and the clear plastic in the soft-top.

Polishing and waxing the body is best done as a two step process, A polish will remove old wax and thoroughly clean and smooth the finish. You don't want a compound unless your paint is one step away from death but a cleaning polish will do wonders. Virtually every professional has his own preference as to brand and product, but if you're uncertain, start with a Meguiar's product that sounds right from the label and try others later for comparison.

Follow the instructions closely, using a soft rag or sponge to apply the polish. Tom Kovacs and others recommend flannel diapers, the more washed the better, for waxing and polishing. You can also buy flannel by the yard, but run it through the washer a few times before using. For the chrome and stainless steel, use a metal polish. I've been using Wenol since Army days but several other good pastes are also available.

Be careful to remove every bit of residue after you're finished, using a paint brush, toothbrush or toothpick. Nothing sets a careless amateur job apart from the best more quickly than waxy residue along the fender beads or around the emblems and lights.

Next comes waxing to put a protective coat over the polished paint and chrome and to add the extra sheen that sets the show car apart. Here again opinions vary but a camauba-based product is generally preferred. Some like paste, others liquid. Tom does recommend avoiding the silicone-based wonder products since they can be difficult to re­move. Note that the chrome gets waxed at the same time as the paint. Wax on polished chrome is one of those show car secrets. Those soft diapers or old undershirts also work best here for final polishing.

When waxing and polishing, a back and forth motion is recommended over a circular motion to avoid swirl marks. As for power buffers, leave them to the professionals. A buffer in inexperienced hands can rapidly ruin a good paint job.

After Waxing, carefully dress all rubber seals and the tires. For this some competitors swear by Armor-All, perhaps the best known of the vinyl and rubber dressings, and some swear at it, preferring anything else or nothing rather than use it. There are several good rubber dressings on the market; try them and make up your own mind. Whatever you select, use it sparingly; wiping it on from a rag rather than spray­ing it on and always making sure the surface is clean be­fore applying.

Interior and Final Detailing

During the final weekend, clean the interior of the car. Start by brushing the carpets and vacuuming the car out, being careful to get down in the door pockets and in every little nook and cranny. If the carpets are older, a household carpet shampoo, or spray and vacuum cleaner, may be a good idea.

Now clean all surfaces with a damp rag and a little spray cleaner. Use a Q-­tip, paint brush, and toothbrush to get into every crack and cranny. A little polish can be used on painted surfaces.

If you have leather seats, use a good leather cleaner, such as made by Lexol, if they are dirty. Finally, use either Lexol or Hide Food to dress them and keep them supple.

Vinyl seats and interior panels generate more controversy then anything else. Many professionals don't use anything at all other than a good cleaning product on vinyl, preferring the soft luster of clean vinyl to the shine of a dressed surface. If you want a little extra, then you might consider a product like ClearGuard, or even Armor-All though here again opinions vary. If you are going to dress the vinyl, use the same rag that you used on the top without adding any additional dressing. The residue in the rag will be more than sufficient.

Finally, after all this is over, take the car out into the sun and walk around it, cleaning, polishing, or wiping wherever you see a spot you missed. Then walk around it again. Look at every square inch up close, then stand back and do the same thing. When you finally can do this without seeing a mark, you're ready.

If you have followed this procedure carefully, you should be able to get the car ready to show, even after a road trip, in just a few hours. Wash the car off with clear water, give it a quick polish if you have time, then go over the car carefully with a clean rag, soft brush, and Q-tips. The final result will justify the effort and pay dividends over time.

If you'd like more detail on detailing, try Ultimate Auto Detailing, available through Classic Motor­books.

Austin-Healey Magazine, May 1989

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