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by Gary
Anderson
Invariably,
the first long spring tour of the Healeying season will see at least one brute parked
beside the road about midway through the event. What will it be this time? Dead
battery? Electical system short? Blown radiator hose?
 Whatever
it is, you may curse Lucas and all the minor gods of British motoring, but you may
have only yourself to blame. Typically, these problems-which often tie up the time
of several drivers-are due not to the vagaries of British engineering but instead
to the owner. You've seen them; maybe you've even been there. With only minutes
to spare before the trip, they pull off the cover, get it started maybe even with
a jump start or push, and then drive it off to the tour. They give nary a thought
to the possibility that the car had, as we say in the West, been ridden hard and
put up wet last fall, and then has sat there all winter with no attention.
We won't
say anything about that oil change that should have been done after the last drive
last fall, or the battery that should have been stored out of the car, or the gas
tank that should have been filled to prevent moisture from gathering in the fuel
system. Let's just get on with what you should do now that the sun is shining and
the warm breeze blowing. This check list, supplied by Bruce and Inan Phillips of
Healey Surgeons, makes good sense. Do it the weekend before you leave on your first
outing.
Change
the engine, transmission, and rear axle oil and the oil filter. T he engine takes
7 quarts of2050 oil and the transmission another 3 to 4 quarts. The Phillips suggest
40 weight non-detergent oil for the transmission; other mechanics say the same
case of oil you bought for the engine will be fine. The rear axle takes 2 quarts
of 90 weight hypoid gear oil. This is a job you can do yourself and will fit in
with the remaining items on the list, but if you don't have the space, or the means
to properly dispose of your used oil, one of the commercial
oil changers will probably do the job effectively if you look over their shoulders
and show them things like where the transmission oil filler is and where all the
drain plugs are.
Lubricate
the car, making sure to get all the fittings listed in your manual-especially the
universal joints. This job is also within even the sub-average mechanic's capability.
A grease gun and a flexible hose can be purchased for less than ten dollars at any
parts store and then all you have to do is match the fittings up with the diagram
in the owner's manual.
Clean/check
wheels and hubs. Check
for loose or broken spokes and check the condition of the hub and splines (sharp
points on the spline teeth or a clunk when starting to move off are dead giveaways).
Or would you rather be singing "You picked a fine time to leave me, loose wheel?"
When putting
the wheels back on, be sure the knock-offs are tightly knocked-on. Check the kingpins,
ball joints of center and side rods for slop while you have the car up on jacks.
Check
tire tread and pressure. Tread
depth, bald spots, and so forth could put a serious crimp in your cornering pleasure
when you get a blowout and, as much fun as they are in the parking lot contests,
wheel change pit stops are not fun when semis are breezing past your ear at 80
mph. As for tire pressure, two pounds lighter in the front than in the rear will
help steering while the firmer tires will give you better gas mileage. (26 front/28
rear or 28 front / 30 rear are good.)
Tighten
all four shocks, especially the front ones. What you thought was a major suspension
rebuild, or just poor British handling, might just be the want of a spanner and
some elbow action.
Top off
oil in the steering and idler boxes and in the carburetors. The steering and idler
takes the 90 weight gear oil. The carbs take regular engine oil.
Inspect
brake and clutch hydraulics for leaks. Friends tell me it is somewhat disconcerting
to have your brake pedal disappear into the floor with no discernible retardation
of forward movement of your vehicle, or to have to drive the remaining miles home
in whatever gear the car was in when the clutch refused to release.
Check
condition of hoses. fan belt. and coolant. This is critical-our cars all run hot
and many of us are driving with belts and hoses that haven't been replaced since
Eisenhower was president. Replace them if there is any question in your mind. If
you think it is difficult to find the correct lower radiator hose or fan belt at
your local parts supplier, try doing it at an interstate highway gas station and
convenience store. Check both the condition and tension of the fan belt and the
retaining bolts on the generator; these bolts can work loose, and a loose belt can
easily become a lost belt.
This little
bit of effort can be accomplished in an afternoon
and still leave time for a beer and most of the ballgame. And, as we mentioned in
our recent "Fear of Driving" column, you may never know what you avoided
by catching a problem early, but we guarantee, you will drive happier and more confidently
knowing that you've checked the car out before you drove off down the road.
Austin-Healey Magazine. May 1990
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